This is the main reason to go to the Cinque Terre. There are beautiful hiking paths between each of the five villages, some longer and more difficult than others, and one even wheelchair accessible. The two most strenuous paths, between the three northernmost villages, take you through vineyards and olive orchards, up and over hills, with striking views of the coastline below. The two stretches between the three southernmost villages are very easy, yet still provide beautiful views and plenty of things to see along the way. Click here for Beth's story on our Rainy Hike in the Cinque Terre from our 1994 trip.

One word of caution: if you plan to hike through the middle village, Corniglia, it's much easier from north to south. It sits on top of a cliff and the path leading away from it to the south is at the bottom of the cliff, down a steep zig-zagging staircase.

The five villages from north to south are:

• Monterosso al Mare - the most commercial of the five and the only one with a real beach to speak of. Don't miss the church at the top of the hill with the Van Dyck painting, and the old section of town south of the tourist area, through the tunnel.
• Vernazza - our favorite, with great restaurants and some very inexpensive but nice places to stay. The view from the castle is tremendous and well worth the hike up to the top. (Click here for photo)

• Corniglia - on the top of the cliff. The train station is at the bottom so don't arrive here with heavy luggage! We found some nice restaurants in a lovely piazza near the center of the village.
• Manarola - Small and picturesque with some lovely hotels and restaurants with great sea views.
• Rio Maggiore (pictured above) - Very small, but the beginning of the Via dell'Amore, the easiest of the walks, heading north.

• The absolute best pasta can be had at Il Castello (pictured) in Vernazza, about halfway up the way to the castle. The Penne Al Castello is outrageously good. And you can't beat the view.

• Also in Vernazza, the Pensione Sorriso has wonderful food, our neighbors tell us. They were forced to pay full pension rates in the summer (most places in the Cinque Terre insist on this), but were glad they did.
• The gelateria in Vernazza on the way to or from the south hiking trail is exceptionally good also, and in summer there's always lots of good fresh fruit on hand at the local fruttivendolo (see photo).

Albergo Marina Piccola
19010 Manarola (SP) Cinque Terre, ITALY
Tel: +187.920.103
Fax: +187.920.966
Would we stay here? Yes

We did not have a good experience at the hotel where we did stay, La Spiaggia, in Monterosso, and would not recommend it.

Many people (including ourselves) come to the Cinque Terre for the beaches. This turned out to be the wrong reason for us, as the weather simply did not allow it. The surf was too rough for swimming the whole time we were there, so much so that the red flags were flying on the beach each day. Also, the beach in Monterosso wasn't as nice as what we're used to in the Americas.

If the weather had been better and the surf less dangerous we probably would have enjoyed it, but we were frustrated with how it turned out. The less populated beaches between some of the villages on the hikes looked actually nicer than those in Monterosso with their lined-up umbrellas and only one small area set aside for public access. As a Californian it's difficult for me to consider paying to sit on a beach, especially one that's full of trash and debris.

Go for the hiking and the picturesque villages.

Pictured: A back street in the old town section of MonteRosso al Mare