• The Roman Forum - No surprise here. We couldn't go to Rome without walking in Caesar's footsteps on the Via Sacra and posing in front of the Temple of the Vestal Virgins (see photo, right). Buy the little red book on sale near the entrance for a wealth of information and re-creations of the crumbling ruins.
  
  But try to plan your trip for when the weather's a little cooler - we had a very hard time enjoying these marvels in the intense heat. If you simply can't avoid the heat, bring plenty of water with you, and be sure to venture down into the Mamertine prison. It's at the foot of the Capitoline Hill at the bottom of a tall staircase. St. Peter was supposedly imprisoned here, and before him other enemies of Rome, such as King Jugurtha of Numidia, lost their lives in this dungeon. It's as cool as a cave down there. Tip the monk at the door 1000 Lire for the blissfully cool air.
• The Pantheon - An architectural wonder and the best preserved ancient building in the world. Worth a visit.

Every little, insignificant looking church is worth a peek into in this city. The Church was the patron of the arts during the Renaissance and treasures abound. Don't forget to look for the light switch, or the 1000 L coinbox, to get the full effect of the beautiful artwork. Some of our favorites include:

• Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio - with the most incredible trompe l'oeil ceiling you'll ever see anywhere. Even the cupola at the top of the dome is an illusion. Look for the circular paving stones for the best perspective of these incredible frescoes by Andrea Pozzo. Between the Pantheon and Piazza di Colonna.
• Chiesa di San Luigi di Parigi (St. Louis of Paris) - Filled with many beautiful paintings on the walls of the side altars, including the Vocation of St. Matthew by Caravaggio. On the way from the Piazza Navona to the Castel Sant'Angelo.
• St. Peter's, of course, with Bernini's columns in the piazza that line up like magic when you stand on the circle near the fountain, Michelangelo's Pietà, and the countless wonders of the Vatican Museum (if you get there in time). Don't believe any schedules you read in the guide books! Be sure to call ahead for the schedule on the day you plan to go.

• Great pizza places abound. It's hard to go wrong if you like thin crust pizza.
• Pasta alla seppia - any type of pasta noodles with squid-like cuttlefish and colored with their ink. Your whole mouth, tongue, lips, etc. will turn black but the taste is worth it.
• Gnocchi alla Romana - the best little potato dumplings with tomato sauce. Delizioso!

Hotel Pensione Parlamento
00187 Roma, Via delle Convertite, 5 ITALY
Tel: +(39) 06.679.2082
Fax: +(39) 06.699.21000
Would we stay here again? Yes

The two brothers who run the hotel are friendly, helpful and speak English. The roof terrace is a lovely place for breakfast, but if the weather isn't cooperating, you'll still enjoy your coffee and rolls in the dining room with its nicely frescoed walls.

This is a great place from which to venture out into Rome, right in the middle of everything, between the Trevi fountain and the Spanish Steps, and not far from the Piazza del Popolo and the Pantheon.

Angels, at St. Peter's

Rome is Rome and one could spend a year there and not see everything. Our only recommendation is to take it slowly and not try to see everything in one trip. Pick out just a few things and save the rest for later. Otherwise you'll have sensory overload and will burn out.

And don't try to do Rome and Florence in the same trip. It's too much. Balance a visit to this eternal city with some time in the open countryside, like the hills towns of Tuscany, the fishing villages of the Ligurian coastline (the Cinque Terre), the lakes in the north, or the mountains of the South Tyrol.